Train smart – not (too) hard
Obviously you need to train hard now and then. But I have learned that it is important to feel like a superman every day if you have any kind of ambitions to perform like superman on the day:-) Training to failure all the time will only take you down and in worst case result in injuries.
As an educated functional trainer in the military I know how important it is to take care of the body so that you can rely on your body when it really counts. I rarely train to failure and maybe only ones a week, but I train many hours on a week and I always focus on the whole body, which include the right diet, vitamins, warm-up, yoga etc.
I am 31 years and have suffered from multiple injuries, inflammations in the joints, broken bones etc. Now I just want my body to be healthy as the primary goal giving me many years in the mountains on long and vertical alpine routes. I would like to train smart so that I can perform on the highest level in many years from now.
I ask myself how i would like my body to perform, I have a goal. I make a program that normally takes around 6-8 weeks and afterwards I make some big changes and redo. Depending on the timeframe I like to have three fases up to a big route: The strength phase, endurance phase and the climbing specific phase. This can vary in many different way depending on time, short term goal, long term goals, injuries etc..
Making the exact same training and the same exercises over years will never push you to the next level. You need to make big changes every 6-8 weeks and challenge your brain and not only your body. I love exercises that limits my brains capacity so that my nervous system is working in the red section not necessarily pushing my muscles to the limit. I wise man once told me that: “You can not train without a brain”. Integrating difficult and challenging exercises is fun and very demanding, but will also train your brain and through your brain your body will perform more economically. And I guess that most people would like that in the mountains.
Your brain is not like a computer at all! If you give a computer many informations it will work slower. The more informations and possibilities you give your brain, the more effective it will work.